A 3D Printable mount by Tony White is available here
Here's another alternative that doesn't require 3D printing:
Note: We DO NOT recommend using the ROVL electrical cable by itself as a handle or as a deployment apparatus!
The figures below show a simple fixture for deploying a topside unit (either transmitter or receiver). The chain, pipe and weights keep the unit submerged and somewhat vertical even if the boat is drifting. Once the IMU is calibrated (receiver only), just drop the unit into the water. The chain should be long enough to let the unit be 1+ meters deep (deeper is better). Obviously, the electrical connections at the user end of the cable need to be kept dry.
The fixture uses US 1-inch size PVC pipe and fittings.
Receiver/Transceiver Fixture. The carabiner at the top end of the chain can be used to affix the chain to a railing or other secure point. It makes for a sad day if you drop your receiver in and aren’t holding onto the chain tightly enough. Be sure to use stainless steel hose clamps with stainless steel screws.
A 1-inch union fitting should be sawn so a hose clamp can clamp to the ROVL unit. The pipe end of the union can be glued to the pipe or another slot can be sawn to allow a hose clamp to hold it to the pipe. If a wide slot is cut into the ROVL end, the ROVL cable can route out the slot for quick attachment and removal (see next photo).
Showing the ROVL cable routed out a wide slot in the union.
Cutting the upper end of the pipe at an angle makes it easier to run the ROVL cable through the middle of the pipe, especially if a USB adapter is molded into the cable.
ROV ballast weights hold the unit underwater and vertical even if the boat is drifting. We use four weights.
Mk II receiver on a chain fixture, ready to drop into the water.
